Charlotte rounded off 2016 with a lovely Chobe River safari experience and a few unforgettable days at Victoria Falls. These two destinations combine really well: a relaxing start with tiger fishing and a bit of game viewing, followed by all the excitement and activities at Africa’s adventure capital.

Logistics: Getting There & Away

Charlotte flew into Livingstone Airport in Zambia. The closest access point to her first stop, Ichingo Chobe River Lodge, is Kasane Airport in Botswana. However, flights into Kasane can be pricy so Livingstone is a good option – especially when adding on a stay at Victoria Falls.

This does mean three countries in one day: Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. But Charlotte found this rather complex-sounding transfer absolutely seamless with a guide always at hand to help her through the border crossings.

From Livingstone to the border was an easy 2-hour road transfer. Next, she hopped into a speedboat to cross the Zambezi River into Botswana.  On the other side, she was met by a guide for the 15-minute drive to the Kasane Immigration Office. After being helped with the formalities of exiting Botswana, she was transferred by water taxi to the Namibian border on Impalila Island. A short walk and another passport stamp later, and she was back in the boat on her way to Ichingo Chobe River Lodge.

Tiger Fishing at Ichingo Chobe River Lodge

The motorboat drew up at the Ichingo jetty, where Charlotte was met by smiling staff and a welcome drink. Most of the lodges in this area are grouped on the Botswana side of the Chobe River which gives Ichingo (tucked away on Impalila Island) a quieter, more secluded feel.

The lodge has just eight air-conditioned tents. The tents are lovely: spacious and light, with a main bedroom, great bathroom, and a little sitting area with beautiful river frontage. This section of the Chobe River is fast flowing, so at night you’re lulled to sleep by the sound of water rushing by.

Being a smaller camp you tend to mix with the other guests, and everyone sits together at meals. Also, the days here are really flexible. For example, Charlotte and her partner wanted to get up early and spend a full morning fishing so they asked for a packed breakfast. Whatever you need, just ask the lodge host Kennedy. He really goes the extra mile for each and every guest.

Ichingo is a fishing focused lodge. They have all the equipment you need, including a cooler box stocked with your favourite drinks. The fishing guides are excellent, and if you’re a complete novice they’ll happily teach you the basics like how to cast.

Other activities include a river safari along the banks of Chobe National Park, or game drive in the park itself. You can also go on an island walk to a huge baobab, and the more adventurous can even climb the tree. In the evening, guests who’ve both climbed the baobab and caught a tiger fish are presented with a shot of Kashasu, a local maize spirit similar to Moonshine. Great fun!

Chobe River Safari Aboard a Luxury Houseboat

A speedboat transfer took Charlotte from Ichingo Lodge to the Chobe Princess. The journey takes a while, with a few stops for game viewing along the way, so you usually arrive at around lunchtime. Charlotte only had one night on board the Princess, but definitely recommends at least two to three.

Being on the middle of the river is incredibly peaceful, especially in the evenings when all the other boats go back and it’s just the Zambezi Queen and her three princesses. You can hear the frogs and watch the wildlife right there on the riverbank. And the sunsets and sunrises over the water are nothing short of spectacular!

The Princess spends most of her time moored. You do go upriver for a couple of hours which was fabulous, and Charlotte saw loads of elephant, crocodiles and antelope. But for close-up game viewing your guide takes you out in one of the small, easily manoeuvrable tender boats.

In the evening after dinner there’s a lovely lounge area for drinks and maybe a game or two of cards. And in the morning you can choose between a game drive or river safari. If you want to go into Chobe National Park you have to go back into Botswana, but it’s an easy crossing. Again, the fishing is excellent!

Royal Livingstone & The Devil’s Pool

The next day Charlotte travelled back to Zambia (so the same border crossings in reverse). Here she was staying at the Royal Livingstone. You really couldn’t ask for a better location: on the bank of the Zambezi River, just upstream of Victoria Falls.

The hotel has a colonial feel and, since it lies within the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, you’ll often see zebra grazing the neatly cropped lawns. During Charlotte’s stay the hotel was decorated for the holiday season, and looking very festive!

There’s a private footpath to the falls and the famous bridge across to Zimbabwe. You can easily walk across, past the nervous huddle of bungee jumpers waiting to jump. On the Zim side Charlotte stopped in at The Lookout Café, and had a G&T at the Victoria Falls Hotel.

Because of the time of year, the falls were not at their most impressive. However, the low water levels did make it possible to swim in the Devil’s Pool. Charlotte took the plunge and describes the experience as both “terrifying” and “absolutely amazing!”

To get to the Devil’s Pool you’re taken by boat from the deck of the Royal Livingstone across to Livingstone Island. Here your guide gives you a safety briefing (safety is a huge priority), and then takes your cameras and phones. You then swim across to a rocky strip in the middle of the Zambezi River.

And then it’s time to jump! The pool is right on the lip of the falls, but a rocky ledge keeps you from tumbling over the edge. It’s a little scary but definitely worth it. Once you get over the adrenaline rush you can take in this very different view of the falls; looking down at all the rock formations and big pools at the bottom.

Her morning swim was followed by a lovely breakfast on Livingstone Island, before she was dropped back at her hotel. A true bucked list experience!

Travel Notes:

• Charlotte wanted to experience both Ichingo Chobe River Lodge and the Chobe Princess. However, since the activities and surroundings are similar, if your time is limited you can choose between the two.
• There are three Chobe Princesses, sleeping between 8 and 10 guests each; as well as the larger, more luxurious Zambezi Queen.
• For more on other properties and activities at Victoria Falls, drop us a message