Namibia is a country of vast open spaces and incredible natural beauty. To the south lies a sea of towering dunes while further north the scenery shifts to rocky deserts with purple-tinted mountains. These stark surroundings seem an unlikely haven for wildlife yet Namibia’s flagship park, Etosha, is one of Africa’s biggest and best known game reserves.

Charlotte recently went on a road trip around Namibia, and shares highlights of her travels in this unique destination.

On safari in Namibia
A few snapshots from my time in Namibia.

Getting Around: Practical Tips

“Namibia is a fantastic choice for an adventurous self-drive holiday. The country has good infrastructure, and although most of the roads are dirt they are in excellent condition so you don’t need a 4×4. I would, however, recommend an SUV because of the higher clearance.

“Keep in mind that driving distances are generally far, so give yourself enough time to enjoy the journey. Pack plenty of snacks, water, wet wipes, and refuel where you can. It’s preferable to travel in convoy, but if that’s not an option you’ll find that people are incredibly friendly and – should they see you stopped on the side of the road – will always check to see that everything’s OK.

“We drove up from South Africa, but most travellers fly into the capital city of Windhoek. Since many of Namibia’s top lodges have their own airstrips, you could also choose to fly from place to place. Internal flights add substantially to the overall cost of the journey, that said those bird’s eye views are sure to be a highlight of your trip.”

Fish River Canyon in Namibia
The main viewpoint overlooking the Fish River Canyon.

Fish River: 2nd Largest Canyon in the World

“Our first stop was the Fish River Canyon, a phenomenal natural wonder that is second in size only to the Grand Canyon! Driving to the canyon viewpoint we entered Ai-Ais National Park, and passed a number of antelope including oryx with their striking pattern and long, elegant horns.

“The main viewpoint has a pavilion where you can learn about the history and geology of the area and take in the magnificent views. Standing on the lip you look down into the canyon; its steep walls carved into the flat plateau. While we were there we watched a group of hikers tackle the start of the tough descent on the first day of the 4-day Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail.

The Canyon Roadhouse close to the Fish River Canyon
Quirky touches at Canyon Roadhouse, close to the Fish River Canyon.

If you have the time, the Fish River is well worth the detour south! For a stopover, try the Canyon Roadhouse which lies about a 45-minute drive from the main viewpoint. Themed around old cars, this extraordinary lodge has quiver trees growing up through rusty Chevys, a filing station (or “pompstasie”) bar, quirky old signs … even the fireplace is built into a car!”

Luderitz, Kolmanskop & Namibia’s Wild Horses

“Leaving the Fish River we headed to Luderitz on the coast. This port town has beautiful churches and a lovely German feel but, being Sunday, was rather quiet. We stopped for a picnic lunch on Shark Island, and were surprised to learn that this peninsula was the site of a concentration camp from 1905 to 1907.

Namibia's desert horses live on the Garub Plains, near Aus.
The beautiful Garub Plains, home to Namibia’s wild horses.

“Outside Luderitz you’ll find Kolmanskop, the famous ghost town where once-stately homes have now been taken over by desert sand. To visit Kolmanskop you need to join one of the guided tours, which only run during the week. It would be really interesting to learn more about this abandoned diamond rush town, just be sure to check the opening times before travelling.

“Between Luderitz and Aus the barren but beautiful desert is home to Namibia’s wild horses. How they came to be there is something of a mystery: they may have been left behind by soldiers or a German stud farm that bred racehorses during Luderitz’s heyday. Your best chance of seeing the horses is from a small, wooden hide that looks out towards a man-made waterhole – their only contact with people. We were lucky, and saw a few horses in the distance.”

Tiras Mountain Conservancy
Waking up with the sun at Tiras Mountain Conservancy.

Tiras: Spectacular Mountain Scenery

“En route to Sossusvlei we spent a night at Tiras Mountain Conservancy. We arrived as the sun was going down, but woke early the next morning and were rewarded with unforgettable views of rocky mountains lit by the soft dawn light. The scenery at Tiras is absolutely incredible!

“There is camping or you can stay at Namtib Desert Lodge. This small, remote lodge is run by a German couple who grew up on the farm and welcome their guests with true Namibian hospitality. They’ll happily take you on a drive around the property, or there are plenty of great walking and hiking trails. We loved it here!”

Dune 45 at Sossuslvei in Namibia
The long climb to the top of Dune 45, in Sossusvlei.

Sossusvlei: Towering Sand Dunes & Deadvlei

“The tall red dunes of Sossusvlei are an essential stop on any Namibian itinerary. Most visitors opt for an early start and get to the gates of the Namib Naukluft Park (where you see the dunes) just after they open at sunrise. We arrived a little later, so the day was already heating up but there were also less people about.

“It’s an easy drive to Dune 45, the famous dune that lies 45km from the park entrance. Climbing to the top is a challenge, but the views are unbelievable and well worth the effort! After Dune 45, the road to Deadvlei becomes thick with sand. If you aren’t driving a 4×4 you’ll need to park and catch one of the regular shuttles the last 5km to the vast white pan with its skeleton-like trees.

“As for places to stay I’d recommend Sossusvlei Lodge, a 4-star property that has air-conditioned chalets with tented roofs. For self-catering, the more remote Desert Camp and Desert Quiver Camp are both great options. All of these properties are part of Taleni Africa, and lie outside the entrance to the Namib-Naukluft Park so you can visit the dunes on a day trip.”

Tropic of Capricorn
Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn en route to Swakopmund.

Swakopmund: Seaside Town with a German Feel

“We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn on our drive to Swakopmund. Namibia’s largest coastal town, Swakops is known for its German colonial architecture and great restaurants. There’s the lovely Raith’s German Deli, Kucki’s Pub, and the Swakopmund Brauhaus which has a large selection of beers of tap and excellent Eisbein. Expect a lively vibe and good food with plenty of game meat on the menus.

The Delight Swakopmund
Funky décor and oysters for breakfast at The Delight Swakopmund.

“Our accommodation for the night was The Delight Swakopmund, part of the Gondwana Collection. Walking into The Delight feels like entering a funky Cape Town hotel: the décor is modern, uplifting, and quite unexpected for Namibia! Another highlight is their amazing breakfasts which include treats such as oysters and champagne.

 

“Staying here puts you about three blocks from the beachfront and pier. We strolled down to the Tiger Reef Beach Bar & Grill for sundowners; while for dinner I’d recommend both the popular Tug Restaurant or Jetty 1905 – a Swakopmund landmark that sits right on the end of the pier.”

Charly’s Desert Tour
Driving in the dunes with Charly’s Desert Tour.

Interactive Desert Tour & Quad Biking

“To get a better understanding of the desert and everything in it, we joined a Charly’s Desert Tour. Our guide was really interesting, and made the tour wonderfully interactive so the kids loved it too. A few highlights included him finding a white lady spider, digging up a brightly coloured Palmetto gecko – which looks rather like a jelly baby, and whistling for birds which came and sat on our hands.

“That afternoon was spent quad biking, another activity that’s great for adults and kids alike. Nervous or new riders can pick automatic bikes and stay low on the dunes, while those seeking more of an adrenaline rush can ride right up to the crests. If quad bikes aren’t your thing, you can also explore the desert on a camel safari or a fat-tire bike.”

Exploring the desert around Swakopmund
Learning about the smaller creatures that live in the desert.

Beautiful Spitzkoppe & Erindi Game Reserve

“Leaving Swakopmund we drove to Spitzkoppe; beautiful mountain peaks that rise dramatically from the flat desert plains. The sheer size of the mountains and scale of the granite boulders is incredible! Take a drive around, have lunch at the restaurant, or pack a picnic and find a shady spot to take in the spectacular scenery.

Spitzkoppe in Namibia
The dramatic desert scenery and giant boulders at Spitzkoppe.

“There are guest farms around Spitzkoppe, and it’s well worth considering a night here to explore the walking trails, tour the ancient rock art sites, and watch the sun set over this stunning landscape. Instead we continued on to Erindi Game Reserve, Namibia’s largest private reserve. Staying here you have the choice between self-catering chalets or the luxurious suites at the Old Traders Lodge.

“Game viewing at Erindi is excellent. Our sightings included elephant at the waterhole, numerous giraffe, and a pack of wild dog huddled together in the chilly morning air. You can drive yourself around the reserve but we went on a guided game drive which included a lovely morning coffee stop in the unusual landscape.”

Erindi Game Reserve
Watching wildlife from a hide at Erindi Private Game Reserve.

Etosha National Park: Wildlife & Waterholes

“From Erindi we continued north to Namibia’s best known reserve, Etosha National Park. Etosha is dominated by a massive pan which, during our visit, was completely dry. There are, however, man-made waterholes where animals congregate. This makes for easy and rewarding game viewing – for sheer abundance of game you simply can’t beat Etosha!

“We stayed at Okaukuejo Camp, widely known for its floodlit waterhole. The game viewing here really is incredible: that evening we heard lion and went to the waterhole to see a pride of ten at the water’s edge! There’s also a camp shop, swimming pool, WiFi and very nice chalets. I’d recommend paying that bit extra for the premier chalets, as they’re set right on the waterhole.

Etosha National Park
Wildlife everywhere (even swimming in the waterholes!) at Etosha.

“Etosha has a couple of newer, more exclusive properties worth mentioning. Onkoshi Camp has just 15 tented chalets built on stilts along the rim of the pan in the more remote north-eastern region of the park. Then to the west, Domomite Camp has 20 safari-style tents perched on top of a small hill.

“We also visited Namutoni Camp. Built into an old German fort, Namutoni offers excellent views from the fort walls, there’s also a lovely swimming pool area but the waterhole isn’t as good as Okaukuejo. Then, outside the park the accommodation options include Mokuti Lodge (just five minutes’ drive from the eastern gate), Onguma Game Reserve (a private reserve bordering Etosha) and Etosha Village – a lovely haven with air-conditioned chalets tucked into a mopane forest.

Accommodation at Etosha National Park
A chalet at Okaukuejo, and Namutoni Campn in the eastern part of the park.

Windhoek: Fun Night Out in Namibia’s Capital

“Leaving Etosha we drove back south to Windhoek. Lying right at the heart of Namibia, Windhoek offers a relaxing stopover at the beginning or end of your safari – especially after many hours on the road. We checked into a newly renovated room at the Windhoek Country Club, a lovely resort on the outskirts of town.

“On our final evening in Namibia was spent at Joe’s Beerhouse in Windhoek. Famous for its quirky décor, Joe’s has rooms and courtyards crammed with our kinds of interesting stuff. The buzzing atmosphere, German food, tasty game meat options and ice-cold beer all make for a fun night out.”

Joe’s Beerhouse in Windhoek
It would be a shame to stop in Windhoek and not visit Joe’s Beerhouse.

Love the sound of Namibia? Get in touch to find out more about special interest tours or group travel in this incredible destination.